![]() Then you are ready to add your clasp ends. Slide your loomed piece off the metal bars and spread out your bead rows evenly outwards towards the ends to hide the loops of the warp strands. When you have finished your piece, unhook your threads from the pegs and sew the end threads through the rows and knot them. Then, when you sew back through the beads, you will go over the vertical warp strands. TIP: When bringing your needle back through the row of beads, press up on the beads so that they protrude upward. Twist the peg that attaches to your thread to keep loose thread tight.Īnd you are ready to continue with your rows until you’ve reached the end. The first two rows will be tricky but after that you get those two on, it will be easier.Īfter your two rows are done, slide off the separator and pull your two rows down so it is flushed against the metal rod. Makes you wish you had a thimble on hand, huh? I did. Be careful not to prick yourself with the sharp end when using this method. Using the backside of the needle will give you a smoother glide through the beads. TIP: When bringing your needle back, use the backside of your needle. ![]() You will then weave back into the same row of beads, but when you feed your needle through, you are gracing the top side of the warp strands. The basic motion of weaving each row is by weaving behind the warp strands with your beads and string. Hook your thread end to your peg and insert it into one of the holes in the front. Here, we cut a ½ inch piece of cardstock paper to get us started. You can use the warp separator card that comes with the kit. It is optional to use the card separator. Next, lay your card separator in between the warp strands. If you see the image below, you will see that we have eight seed beads per row and thus we need nine warp strands. ![]() The amount of warps you have is according to the amount of beads you have in a row, PLUS ONE. Adjust the wood piece/tailstock to your preferred bracelet length and start making your warp strands. These rods are where your vertical warp strands will lay. Like the instructions you will receive, first you insert your metals rods. This continuous wrapping of the strands between rods will leave you with two threads at the end. A traditional loom will have multiple warp strands going up and down along the loom, while a Ricks Bead Loom will have only one strand that wraps back and forth, up and around between the two rods. The difference between a traditional bead loom and Ricks Bead Loom is the amount of warp strands you are using. The basic method of bead looming is weaving a thread back and forth through rows of seed beads that are sandwiched in between vertical strands or “warp strands”. You can also check out Ricks video tutorial on his webpage on how to use his bead loom. ![]() When you purchase a Ricks Bead Loom, you receive the bead loom and its components, as well as a detailed, visual instructions of how to set up and use the bead loom. We also provide two different ways to clasp loom bracelets. Here are some tips and tricks to using Ricks Bead Loom, as well as some inspirational loom bracelets to get you started. If you are new to using the bead loom or have been wanting to use a bead loom, believe us when we say that using the Ricks Bead Loom is super easy and simple. A bead loom can help you make elaborate, beautiful necklaces to simplistic bracelets. From traditional Native American Indian-loomed wampum belts to popular and modern Julie Rofman wrap bracelets, bead looming has transcended through changes in time, culture and fashion.
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